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The Top 10 bites of 2017

Bobboi Natural Gelato's pistachio perfection was one of the best things dining writer Michele Parente ate all year.
Bobboi Natural Gelato’s pistachio perfection was one of the best things dining writer Michele Parente ate all year.
(Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune)

From fancy fare to faux fast food, here are most memorable things we ate this year.

Pam Kragen’s Top 5

1. Lacquered Northern halibut

1500 Ocean, Coronado: Since joining the Hotel Del Coronado in September as chef de cuisine, French master chef Patrick Ponsaty finally has a venue and budget worthy of his culinary talents. The delicate lacquered fish dish is one of Ponsaty’s longtime signatures, but it’s been refined with even better ingredients, like a saffron emulsion and Tahitian squash mousse.

Chef William Eick's 608 Burger at his 608 Restaurant in Oceanside.
(Eduardo Contreras / San Diego Union-Tribune )

2. 608 Burger

608 restaurant, Oceanside: Chef/owner William Eick’s signature burger is the perfect umami bite, with a house dry-aged chuck patty, fermented chili aioli, crispy onion strings and tangy cheddar cheese on a toasted brioche bun. One of San Diego’s better burgers for sure.

Among the ubiquitous poke shops in San Diego, Pokewan’s signature bowls, especially the Miso Nutty, are excellent.
(Pokewan )

3. Miso Nutty poke bowl

Pokewan, Del Mar: Poke eateries are ubiquitous in San Diego, but Pokewan’s ultra-fresh signature bowl is at the tippy-top in quality and flavor. Chunks of spicy tuna, albacore and salmon are generously served over seasoned rice with a crunchy/sweet mix of macadamia nuts, avocado, blue crab, corn, watermelon radish, sriracha, ponzu and miso sauce. I crave it.

The ultra-authentic Cuban sandwich at Havana 1920 restaurant and bar in the Gaslamp Quarter.
(Eduardo Contreras / San Diego Union-Tribune )

4. Cuban sandwich

Havana 1920, Gaslamp Quarter: There’s nothing nouveau about this ultra-traditional pork, cheese and mustard sandwich on bread flown in from Miami for true authenticity. It’s just like abuela used to make and it reminds me of the little Cuban restaurants my family visited when we lived in central Florida in the late 1960s.

The lobster carpaccio at Lionfish Modern Coastal Cuisine in the Gaslamp Quarter.
(Pam Kragen/San Diego U-T )

5. Lobster carpaccio

Lionfish Modern Coastal Cuisine, Gaslamp Quarter: As pretty as it is delicious: Coin-shaped slices of lobster are served with sherry ponzu, brown butter aioli and crispy shallots.

Born & Raised is a superb steakhouse but the spaghetti with uni and lemon is surprisingly stand-out dish.
(Courtesy photo )

Michele Parente’s Top 5

1. Spaghetti with uni

Born & Raised, Little Italy: I expected the steak at this glam chophouse to be excellent. Ditto the Caesar salad, tartare, mashed potatoes, classic cocktails, all of it. How could they not, when the place cost $6.5 million? But the uni pasta was an al dente revelation, topped with sea urchin so fresh you could taste the sea. Lemon sauce and zest pulled it all together for a perfect dish at a near-perfect restaurant.

Hundred Proof's roasted beet hummus is arguably the most visually arresting dish of 2017. It's delicious to boot.
(Courtesy photo )

2. Roasted beet hummus

Hundred Proof, Normal Heights: You eat with your eyes first so get ready for this eye-poppingly purple hummus that’s creamy (from chickpeas), salty (feta), tangy (scallions) and crunchy (toasted pistachios). In other words, a feast for all the senses.

There is nothing trendy about the Antique Row Cafe's homemade biscuits. Slathered with butter or smothered in gravy, they taste like pure comfort.
(Nancee E. Lewis photo )

3. Biscuits

Antique Row Cafe, North Park: This homespun neighborhood hangout is the anchor on what may be San Diego’s most delicious block. And though surrounded by a sea of hipness (Tajima Ramen, Et Voilà, Sabuku Sushi, Blackmarket Bakery), Antique Row Cafe’s tender and moist biscuits are like a fresh-from-the-oven comfort food life-preserver.

Even if you're not fortunate enough to taste Bobboi Natural Gelato's creamy frozen concoctions from the machine, it'll taste as fresh from the counter. Notice how the pistachio isn't s fake neon green.
(Alejandro Tamayo / The San Diego Union-Tribune )

4. Pistachio gelato

Bobboi Natural Gelato, La Jolla: This one isn’t fair. I got to taste this pale green, sublimely creamy frozen treat as it was being coaxed from the gelato machine by Bobboi co-owner Andrea Racca. He and partner Marco Saba were trying to demystify the art of gelato-making for the U-T (real ingredients and not a lot of them!) and put this dessert in proper context: “As a food,” Saba said, “gelato is as important in Italy as pizza and spaghetti.”

The "In-N-Haute" burger, an homage to the In-N-Out Double-Double at Juniper & Ivy might be the best way to impress out of town guests since the zoo.
(Courtesy photo )

5. In-N-Haute burger

Juniper & Ivy, Little Italy: “Please be good, please be good,” I was thinking to myself as every dish came out of “Top Chef” Richard Blais’ kitchen one night early this year. I was dining with four James Beard Award judges who were in town and I wanted San Diego to shine. Course after course was met with praise, but it was Blais’ juicy, umami-packed off-menu take on the legendary double double that brought adulation. “Please be good?” How about, “Whew, that was great.”

michele.parente@sduniontribune.com

Twitter: @sdeditgirl


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