Industrial, because the Zeitgeist requires all new gastropubs be designed with concrete and wood. Packed, because this Bay Park neighborhood wants Serrano-Rita cocktails and Manzanita IPAs.
Luce's NFL Sunday Ticket TV subscription is also a draw. Same goes for the Luce Burger with sharp cheddar, arugula, carmelized onions and heirloom tomatoes (with fries, $12).
Luce also pulls pizza (escargot-and-pesto; fig-Gorgonzola-and-arugula) from a wood-fired oven, and makes "pork drumsticks" (breaded piggy meat surrounding pork chop bones).
Rounding out the $18-and-under menu are more mature offerings: pan-fried Canadian snapper, flat iron steak...by the way, the snug little Luce has access to the veteran Baci Ristorante kitchen next door. (Luce is owned by the D'Amato brothers, Gaetano and Baci's owner, Tony.)
Right now is Luce's soft opening; expect a grand opening next week.
Luce Bar and Kitchen: 1959 Morena Blvd; Bay Park; (619) 275-0321 or sandiegoluce.com
Read more from Keli Dailey on utsandiego.com
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