Eat This: Venus Clams at Table 926

Beyond a swarm of Pacific Beach taco shops and bars, you’ll find a cute, very-adult restaurant with recycled Zebra Wood floors and a generous bowl of clams.

Table 926 serves its steamed Venus clams in a white wine and butter broth -- I’d name them among the menu winners here.

At $13.50, they’re tender, offering only the mildest resistance. They’re sweet. And - pepped up with Spanish chorizo, chili flakes and salsa verde - they’re not your standard garlic-and-butter clam operation.

Since December, chef-owner Matt Richman has taken a Cali-Mediterranean-Latino approach to his plates, which range from grilled albacore and braised pork cheeks in a guajillo-tamarind glaze, to grilled octopus salad and Brussels sprouts.

The menu is well-sourced, albeit small and vegetarian-challenged.

Homeowners and cultured young couples contribute to the convivial atmosphere.

The worldly wine list shows maturity, too (Tablas Creek, Saxon Brown, La Posta labels at $8-$12 a glass).

Easy to miss: Table 926 is set far back from the street, in a small plaza. Slow down to skateboarder speeds and look to the north side of Turquoise, there’s a small parking lot in front of it. Small, it’s a 45-seater with lots of sustainable decor.

Info: Table 926, 926 Turquoise St. Pacific Beach/La Jolla border. (858) 539-0926 or Dinner only. Closed Mondays.

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Source: DiscoverSD